Istanbul was Constantinople
I didn’t know much about Turkey before I went. I knew I didn’t like it’s food homonym and that it was another Muslim country we would be visiting but that was about it. Before our trips we typically dig in deep, learn some of the language, cook some of the food or try to find a local restaurant, watch movies and documentaries to get a feel on culture, etc., etc., etc. It’s the best part of how Erik and I plan for our adventures. But for this trip we were planning to hit 15 countries so we couldn’t do as deep of dive as we’d like. As soon as we landed I think we both felt disappointed we hadn’t done more for Turkey though.
On our tram ride into the city Erik asked me, “what have you been picturing in your mind of what Istanbul would look like?”. I honestly didn’t have an answer but the longer we rode along, the more I realized that this – this is exactly what I had imagined! We stopped at one corner with Ottoman architecture on both sides, with people rushing in and out of the stores, people on mopeds honking at the mini’s and a very old adorable man walking down the hill in a full on suit. That. That is exactly what I had envisioned!
Once we got off the tram we headed towards our hotel but forgot that we had booked a cute little space just a few blocks from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. As we rushed off the tram with our heads down, gathering our stuff and finding our footing – we look up and stop in our tracks. WOW. What a sight to see these two buildings competing across from each other with such beautiful surroundings. We were in complete awe. We walked the windy streets to our hotel and were met with just the most adorable wooden façade. When we were walking around the Greek islands we kept saying how ‘cute’ everything was but that was only because we hadn’t been here yet.
We had a disaster of a time getting to our hotel, it took almost 2 hours, so we were running tight to our tour time for that night. But! We made it and we had the most delightful time walking around Istanbul as the sun set, learning about all the places locals go for lunch and finding the best spots for baklava. We had to finish the tour by 9 to get our laundry (which we got with 2 minutes to spare!) but I think our guide could have walked and talked us around the city for a few more hours. He was a delight. Erik had already researched Irish Pubs, so we hopped right over to one after our laundry pick up.
Little things to not forget:
Kittens at the laundry place
Seeing the stray dogs for the first time and realizing how huge they all are
Being wow’d by every window display with massive amounts of whatever they sold – Turkish delights, baklava, lamps, rugs, knickknacks, etc.
Getting so car sick on taxi drive to the tram
The taxi driver complaining endlessly
Erik offering up our 700 TL just because
Paying for the bus instead of the tram
Seeing that old man walking down the street
Seeing the Blue Mosque at night for the first time
Our second day in town we had a free walking tour planned, but neither of us were that interested since we had just done a tour of the same place the night before. We had found some museums that were interesting and were planning to maybe do that instead. Thinking, ‘hey, if we don’t like the tour guide or it is repetitive we can just leave early.”
We were wrong. Pinar was so engaging and hilarious that despite some sights being the same – we stayed with her the entire time. Not only that, but she talked us into joining her for a boat ride and a short tour of the Asia side later that afternoon! We walked and walked and walked that day and saw so much of the city that we just fell deeper in love with everything about Istanbul. To say we’re smitten is an understatement.
The boat cruise was great, we went into the Golden Horn to 2nd bridge from the European side and got dropped off on the Asia side. The number of mosques in this city is 1. Annoying at 4am and 6am when you hear them all doing calls to prayer, 2. Creates an absolutely stunning view at nighttime 3. Over 4000 (!!!) – so cruising along the coast we were able to see so many, high up on hills and scattered across the hill side. The architecture is also stunning here, Ottoman architecture is something I hadn’t seen en masse – so seeing the rolling hills of the city covered with these beautiful buildings made my heart pitter patter.
That night, one of the food items Pilar introduced us to was lokma, which are fried dough balls with the same syrup that baklava has. So when you bite into the warm, soft fluffy bread you get both a little bit of warm grease mixed in with the incredibly sweet syrup. My lord. I could have passed out. We got a box to go so we could chow down on them while catching up on Ted Lasso. Getting back to the European side, we made it just in time to see an absolutely incredible sunset over the bridge.
Little things to not forget:
The feeling of eating my first lokma
How Pilar would ask “are we ready to go?” hunched down, and when we’d say yes, she’d snap her fingers and with a little hop would say “let’s go!” and off she went.
The deliciousness of fresh OJ, grapefruit juice and pomegranate juice that was pressed in front of your eyes
Erik’s reaction to ordering Turkish Ice Cream – so cool and calm
The soft colors of the Istanbul sunset
Seeing dolphins off the side of the ferry
A delicacy in Istanbul - stuffed potatoes!
On Sunday we had nothing planned but a Hammam. We decided to get up early and check out a few museums before our appointments. We started with the Basilica Cistern. While waiting in line, Erik asked me ‘What are we about to see? Just pipes of the city? Water?”. I honestly had no idea, so as usual we waited in anticipation to see what in the world we had gotten ourselves into.
And WOW! We had no idea it would blow our minds! It was just like the place where Harry Potter went to save Ginny in the tunnels, the ceilings were so incredibly high and arched for support. The posts supporting the ceiling were decorated and intricate. Within the posts there were pieces of art, many that were very moving. Like a person dissolving into the water, representing how our societies around the world are crumbling with a mix of climate change, unfair rulers and technology. With the setting and the lighting the artwork sent shivers down your spine. It was one of our favorite activities of our Europe leg so far.
After that we headed to the Topkopi Palace. If you’ve watched “Rise of Empires” on Netflix, you’ll see them stomping around in a castle in Istanbul. THIS IS THAT CASTLE! We had watched an episode the day or two before and it was just so unreal to be walking through the buildings. They were so well maintained that if we had been on the market for a huge, stone, sterile property – we could have moved right in! The school building was the most beautiful, with incredible tile work that looked like each piece took weeks to paint. Everything was over the top and just so incredible.
Then it was time for our Hammam! We went to a traditional Turkish one recommended by Kevin and Morgan (yay!) so there was a women’s time and a men’s time. I was going first and had been mentally preparing for this since I signed up. I told myself I was going to be brave and go butt naked! Once I walked in and was reviewing the information, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that underwear were now required. Ha!
So, there I sat surrounded by bathing beauties in their fluffy towels and hair wraps, sipping tea and looking so relaxed. I couldn’t wait to be at that part of my appointment. Off I went! I got my Turkish towel and headed in. First, I was violently washed with perfectly warm water dumped on me from a metal bowl while attempting to do what I was asked in Turkish. From there, I was told to lay on this warm slab of marble, which was very warm and so amazing, until my skin was open and ready for the rest of the treatment. The ceiling was a high arch with holes and stars cut into the cement that allowed you to see the clouds passing by. But, it also gathered condensation and the spot I was laying meant it kept dripping directly into my belly button!
Eventually, my foot was tapped, and it was time to get scrubbed down. If you know me, I have very very sensitive skin – like, rubbing my hands on my jeans hurts my hands and makes my stomach turn. If Erik rubs his hand or whatever on my arm, it literally feels like my skin will fall off. This may have been a bad idea.
After getting violently dumped on again by the perfectly temperate water, my personal washer started scrubbing me down with this awful mitt. It was incredible – you could see how fresh your skin was getting in front of your eyes. Then another round of violent dumping of water. And then! The best part started! She grabbed a pillowcase looking thing and put it in her bucket of bubbles. She moved it around and when she pulled it out, she waved it around a little to gather to pillow case with air, she tightened the end and then over me she deflated the pillowcase by running her hand from top to bottom. To my delight I was instantly covered in billions of bubbles, I was now a human bubble. She did it three more times and I was pretty sure all that was left uncovered were my eyes, otherwise I was a huge pile of bubbles. DELIGHTFUL!
Some more washing and some more water dumping happened and eventually I was dried and directed out to the lobby in my fluffy towel and hair wrap to the comfy seats to enjoy my own tea. I had not reached the max relaxation that it looked like the others had reached, but I was thoroughly clean!
Erik went next, his experience was slightly different and since he has no skin sensitivities like me or hasn’t been punished his whole life by society and media to be ashamed of his body – he had an incredible time and rated it 5 out of 5 stars!
We meandered the area and caught another sunset over the river. An unexpectedly delightful and beautiful day – just how I like it!
Little things not to forget:
The glee of being a human bubble
Walking down the steps of the cistern and seeing the room open up, jaws on the floor
Stepping foot into the palace kitchen and realizing “this looks familiar” – feeling like I was part of history.
Walking around Istanbul by myself, feeling the rush of wind from people passing by, hearing chatter and laughter in many different languages, peaking at treasures in the windows, feeling so calm and grounded.
Watching the fishermen on the bridge, the wild seagulls above as the sunset over the bridge and the mosques lit up at dusk
The sugary, wet feel and taste of baklava
Turkish black tea in tulip glasses
Our final day came up on us quickly and we were surprised to realize that we had nothing planned! So we decided we were loving Turkish food so much, why not do a food tour! We got one booked and that left the morning open for us to do some shopping. We checked out all of the famous bazaars and some rug markets. We ended up with almost all the goodies we were hoping for! But then – it was FOOD TIME.
The evening started with a rushed arrival for us, which seems to be our thing these days. But we just hopped right on a ferry and headed off to the Asian side for some delicious treats! The night was filled with incredible food, great company (hi new friends!) and very full bellies. In no order, here are the delicious things we ate:
Local cured meat and cheese
Olives
Pickle juice with pickled goodies
More cheese and beef liver
Halva
Lahmacun
Midye Dolma & beer (beer wasn’t included but after our Brazilian friends sought it out, most of us followed suit)
Eggplant kebabs with yogurt dips and tomato pepper dip
Turkish chicken wings
3 slices of Kunefe and Erik plums (plums with the name Erik, even spelled that way)
